Routing Thin Strips from WoodCentral
If the ultimate goal was to have shaping on the edges of thin strips of wood, you’d most likely shape and then cut, says this woodworker. But what’s he supposed to do if he wants the shapes and he already has the strips? That’s the query he posted. - Editor
“If I needed to have some kind of shape on the edge a thin strip of wood -- e.g. 1/4 inch, I wouldn't rout it; I would rout the shape first on a wider board and then cut the strip. But suppose you already have the strips -- say you got a gift of some fine , thin strips. What's a safe way to shape the edges?” – Eliot
In response, he got a request for more details, which he provided.
“It's fancy mahogany, already in strips, so no larger stock to work from. The project looks much like a raised panel frame , and what I'm doing is decorating it by putting a thin frame within the larger frame.” - Eliot
One suggestion went for simplicity.
“Without knowing more, I would suggest either hot gluing, or double sided taping the strips to a larger block of wood to router safely.” - Bart
And another spoke with the voice of experience.
“I did just this operation on 80-1/4” x 3/4” strips when I made my canoe. Each of the strip's edges were routed with a cove and bead. This can easily be done safely. All you need to do is make fingerboards that hold the strips down on the router table and against the fence, both fore and aft of the bit. Maybe that's a little overkill, but your own fingers won't even get close to the bit.” – Bruce
The original poster asked for clarification on the safety aspect of this suggestion.
“How do you push the strips past the bit with finger boards holding against the fence and against the table? I have the same problem with table saw ripping of a thin strip when I use a finger board that holds against the fence and down against the table. It's OK if the strips are long enough and you only need a portion of the strip, but if you have to route the entire length of the strip, there would seem to be difficulty getting past the finger boards.” - Eliot
And an answer came from another forum member.
“Use the next strip to push the existing strip through, and pull the last one through after you've got enough length to grab onto.” - Bill H.
Another forum member suggested an alternate method – and the original poster came back and said this was his favorite, because he felt the safest with it.
“I used this on hundreds of feet of wood shelf edging with a small Delta shaper. The same way should work for a router table: Get a block of wood about two inches square in cross section and a foot long. Cut a slot lengthwise that is a snug fit over the strips. Drill a recess into the middle of the block for clearance of the router bit and chips. Clamp this jig to the router fence and push your strip into the slot slowly; when it starts out the outfeed end, grab it and pull the strip the rest of the way.
“This way, if your setup is done correctly it will eliminate a tendency for the small strip to shatter and if it does , there is no way your fingers will be damaged.” – Fred D.
Contractor’s vs. Cabinet Saw Upgrade Experience from WoodCentral
A woodworker whose table saw is a contractor’s model wondered what prompted others to switch to a cabinet saw. He received several answers. - Editor
“I have been using a JET contractor's saw for 15 years or so now and am happy with it's performance in my hobby. Have been pondering a new cabinet saw, but can't justify it right now. Other than more horsepower (typically), an enclosed base, opportunity for a riving knife, and a "more solid" machine, what are the realistic reasons to upgrade? Yes, I know that you can balance a nickel on the top of many of them, but minor vibration doesn't seem to impact my work. What did you guys eventually realize was the reason(s) for your upgrade? Just curious.” - Pete
One respondent cited the “feel” of the cabinet saw.
“Your final product with a cabinet saw versus a contractors saw (especially in your experienced hands) is likely to be minimal. Nonetheless, those advantages are not insignificant, especially after feeding stuff (especially thick stuff) through the saw all day long. Whether-or-not you are pushing a 4x8 sheet of plywood, or a 12/4 piece of jatoba (a very hard tropical wood) through the cabinet saw, it will easily be done and done in a way that "feels" safer.” - Jim
A couple more provided lists of the benefits they found from their cabinet saws. - Editor
“Better fence system. No more measuring fore and aft and tapping with a mallet to square it up before a cut.
“Bigger, flatter top. My old saw had sheet-metal wings that sagged. Cast-iron wings, extension and outfeed tables are a big improvement.
“Better dust collection. The enclosed base helps a lot.
“Easier alignment. The cabinet saw was pretty close to dead-on from the factory. It only took a couple of shims to make it perfect. The contractor's saw needed a lot of tweaking and cussing to get it to line up at both 90 and 45 degrees. Fortunately, I only had to do this once.
“More power. I used to trip the thermal protection on the contractor saw while nursing a cut in 8/4 maple. Now I do 12/4 with a power feeder.” – Bill E
“Why did I upgrade?
“Power - 5 hp (overkill, but it was only $50 more versus 3 hp) - I can saw through cherry, oak, maple or any other hardwood quite quickly. I don't have to worry about my saw bogging down. If I want to make a cove cut or an angled cut (think tapering), I don't have to worry about it.
“Fence - my original one was a piece of C&@%. I replaced it and it was better. My fence now is rock solid. I can slide jigs on it, set it consistently, etc. I also have 50+ inches to the right of my blade.
“Table - yes, I could have built a table around my old saw - but why? I now have about a 4' table. Makes a real difference.
“Dust collection - I had mounted a piece of plywood and a dust hood on the underside of my contractor's saw. I used it and I partially blocked off the back. Didn't really work well. Now I have a sloped enclosed bottom. I can turn on the DC or not (when I cut a bunch of dadoes in PT lumber, I left the DC off and collected the cutting there).
“Repeatability - I can set my fence to the same distance and know it will be accurate. I can set the angle on the blade and know it can easily be repeated.
“Weight - my contractor's saw weighed maybe 200 lbs or less. My cabinet saw weighs over 500 lbs. When you are cutting large, weighty pieces of lumber it makes a difference.” – JL
Other woodworkers added outfeed tables and space concerns to the list.
“I also found the cabinet saw to require less room in my already tight garage.” – Mark S
“One last item that I don't think was mentioned, and is a huge benefit to me, is that on my cabinet saw, I could mount a roller outfeed table. I use it all the time and would not be able to use on a contractor saw.” – Bart
Not all commenters, however, felt that the “upgrade” was a good idea.
“ Around '02 I upgraded to a JET Cabinet Saw. In hindsight, the contractor did everything I needed. For $500 to $700, you could add an Incra fence and an Incra miter gauge to your contractor and end up with what, in my opinion, is a way better woodworking tool than any stock cabinet saw. This does, of course, presume you are starting with one of the better contractor saws.” – John M
“I ‘upgraded’ from a JET contractor's saw w/18 amp motor to a JET hybrid last year. My contractor's saw was the better saw mechanically, but the switch was justified by a left-tilting arbor on the hybrid. If I had it to do over, I would have either stuck with the contractor saw (had more power) or would have bought another contractor saw with a left-tilting arbor. I like and frequently use the left-tilt feature of the hybrid. However, I would rather have my old saw back if it was configured for left-tilt.” - George
“It sounds to me as if your trying to find excuses to replace a saw that your happy with. There are deals out there on cabinet saws, no doubt, but remember that few people will ask you before making such a purchase: how is your shop’s electrical system? Can it handle it, plus a dust collector and a few other small things such as lights, radio, etc ? My garage/shop couldn't, and that would be an added expense, especially if I had to hire it out.” – Chuck
Of those who had gone the cabinet saw route, some had reasons that were not exactly tied to woodworking needs.
“They sure looked good in the catalogs to me. My drooling was getting pretty bad. My itch and ego overtook me and jerked my credit card out of pocket. I love mine, the horsepower and the weight of the whole unit. It stays in one place. Life is too short to not have good tools!!! Bite the bullet and getcha one, Merry Christmas to you!” - Lewis
I wanted to own a Porsche (car) and came to the realization that I probably would never be able to afford that luxury. So I figured the next best thing would be a Unisaw in my garage.” - Mark